Fried rice is what Chinese kitchens do with rice that was cooked the day before: break it up, toss it in a smoking-hot wok with egg, add a few small diced extras, season with salt, finish with spring onion. Every grain stays separate. It is one of the cheapest and safest things to order in China – on the menu of almost every place that serves rice, from a noodle shop to hotel room service.
Two things surprise visitors. It is usually pale gold, not brown: the default versions use no soy sauce. And in a restaurant meal it counts as the staple (主食, zhǔ shí), like a bowl of plain rice – so it tends to arrive at the end, after the other dishes.
What it tastes like. Every grain separate, a little chewy and glossy with oil, with soft scraps of egg running through it. Plain egg fried rice tastes of egg, salt and spring onion and not much else – it is meant to go with other dishes. Yangzhou fried rice adds the sweet pop of peas and corn and small salty cubes of ham. A plate is a full meal for one.
A bit like… The rice version of fried leftover potatoes: everyday food made from yesterday’s staple, made good by a very hot pan.